Palaces, parks and lakes: Potsdam might just be Berlin’s best day trip
A city steeped in history and home to more palaces than any other German city, Potsdam somehow manages to get forgotten in the shadow of Berlin. I know this because although I spend a lot of time in Berlin, I often forget to make the jaunt over to Potsdam myself.
It's silly because I don’t think twice about jumping on an S-Bahn (metro trains in the Berlin region) and traveling 45 minutes or more to see sights around the capital city. So, I finally decided to head to Potsdam for the day. And now I’ll return again and again because the former East German city has much to offer for a day trip or weekend just a short 45-minute hop from Berlin.
The name Potsdam is inextricably linked to the end of World War II because of the Potsdam Conference. Winston Churchill, Joseph Stalin, and Harry S. Truman chose to meet in Potsdam in 1945 to plan post-war peace and Germany’s administration. That is where the decision was made for four occupation zones managed by the United Kingdom, the Soviet Union, the United States, and France. Potsdam ended up in the Soviet’s zone and thus became a part of East Germany, locked behind a wall.
The city, which was heavily damaged during World War II, has undergone spectacular reconstruction over the last three decades. I found it very walkable, quickly threading my way from the main train station and toward the town center and the promised palaces. Potsdam is also extremely bike-friendly and offers an extensive public tram system if you prefer not to walk or bike.
Spending a day in Potsdam
My goal was to spend a day touring Potsdam. It is in fact possible to see many of the city’s highlights in a day, but there are so many jaw-dropping buildings and so much history, you need to plan carefully – especially since the grandest of all the parks and palaces at Sanssouci covers 700 acres! That alone could be an entire day. And if you decide to do one of Potsdam’s hallmark river cruises? Well, then all bets are off!
My suggestion for a day trip is to decide if you’d rather visit all the grand Sanssouci gardens, sights, and palaces, OR if you want to enjoy the city center with its market squares, monuments, and gardens, including the Dutch Quarter and highly recommended Garrison Church.
Since my husband, Michael, and I had been to Sanssouci Park for a fantastic late summer evening event called Palace Nights, I opted to cruise around town instead for my one day. If you are in the area in late August, however, do check out Palace Nights with its music, lights, performances and shows tucked in all corners of the park, and do wear your most comfy walking shoes!
Finding history and hidden gems in Potsdam’s inner city
It didn’t take more than a few minutes from the train station to be stopped in my tracks in awe: In maneuvering across a busy bridge over a lake formed by the confluence of two branches of the Havel River, I spied a large greenspace called Friendship Island. It is an island oasis popular with locals and filled with gardens, paths, fountains, expanses of lawn and playgrounds. Behind it you see the tops of church steeples and palace towers. I took a peek at a couple of Friendship Island statues but vowed to come back when I was on a bike or had a bit more time.
From there, you only need to cover about a quarter mile to get to the Old Market (“Alter Markt”). It is a grand square, albeit nearly totally reconstructed, surrounded by even grander buildings. A former palace houses the Brandenburg State Parliament, and you’ll also find the Saint Nicholas church, the Barberini art and Potsdam art and history museums. Take your time to stroll around and enjoy the sights or pop inside a museum – remembering how this area was mostly rubble after the Berlin Wall fell in 1989.
I also stumbled on an insider’s secret for a fantastic Potsdam skyline view AND a reasonably price lunch or snack inside the parliament building. Just walk in, check in with security, and head to the canteen on the top floor and out the side door. Entrance is free, too, and who can beat that price? The canteen is also open to the public through lunch with basic meals. The other skyline view by the way is from the terrace atop the Garrison Church.
By now it’s heading toward lunchtime and perhaps you want more than a canteen as I did. Get ready for a bit of a surprising neighborhood for that: About a half mile away is the so-called Dutch Quarter (“Holländisches Viertel”), just 134 traditionally Dutch red brick buildings built in four squares. Today it’s a trendy, highly recommended destination with its unique architecture, street cafes, restaurants, and boutiques. Not so much when it was built in 1742. King Frederick William I of Prussia invited Dutch craftsmen to move to Potsdam to build out the city. But this area where they were invited to live was not much more than a swamp. The craftsmen then drained it and built the housing.
Michael and I had lunch at the Flying Dutchman (“Zum Fliegenden Holländer”) and were wowed from start to finish. Make a reservation since it is popular with both locals and tourists. If the weather is nice, you can find a seat outside and watch the world go by. Do not rush this experience!
After lunch, I wanted to stretch my legs and see more of the town and its old city gates, so I threaded my way into the so-called “Mitte” or downtown to continue my loop of town. I first checked out the Nauener Gate, one of three well-preserved Potsdam city gates from the 1700s. Residents dash back and forth past it like it’s a nothing, but it’s two spires are beautiful.
From that gate, I suggest heading down to Brandenburger Street – the town’s main pedestrian street – and walking straight down to the Brandenburg Gate. And you thought the only beautiful gate called Brandenburg was in Berlin? Take the time in Potsdam to explore both sides of this gate – they are different in style and were built by two different architects. There is a pedestrian walk-through on each side that was added a century after the gate’s construction.
What you don’t want to miss is a sweet, rather nondescript building that has been a restaurant (“Alter Stadtwächter”), but in the 1700s housed city guards. It is the oldest remaining portion of the old city wall, built in 1722 – and you can see where the wall would have been on the side. Today, it sits rather forlornly less than 100 yards from the Brandenburg Gate. Trams tear back and forth in front of its glamorous arched façade.
I was exhausted after taking in all these sights in just one day. And I intentionally decided to skip some museums, plus I yearn for a river cruise, too -- meaning I must come back … oh double darn. Your day might not be over yet, though. Maybe Sanssouci beckons for an evening stroll?
Story by Therese Iknoian. See more photos by Therese Iknoian here. They're all available for purchase as gifts or just for you! Free Substack subscribers get 25% off any order! Our paid supporters receive 50% off any order.
If you’d like an individualized walking tour in Potsdam, consider Johannes Westerkamp. Contact him and explore some of his tours by visiting this link.
